A subtle but enticing nose suggested fruit pastilles, tinned fruit cocktail, treacle (actually golden syrup) tarts and a candy floss stall next to a flower shop. The palate was a complex calligraphic statement of exotic fruits (custard apple, papaya, pomegranate and blackcurrant) with hairline curlicues of paint and perfume, all underlined with a Japanese brush stroke of ginger, liquorice, arrowroot and wooden sea chests. The reduced nose evoked an artist’s easel set up by ripe barley fields in bright summer sunshine. The palate now combined perfumed Charentais melon and marmalade with earthier notes of tobacco strands and burnt toast.