As we spread brandy butter on white toast, a vase of lilies and carnations was topped up with condensed milk. Sweetness abounded on the nose, and gorse flower-infused vanilla milkshake enveloped the tongue before, after a pause, light anise, gentle bergamot and a pinch of mace. To complement an oaky backbone, the introduction of water pulled forward an antique green leather armchair, sat in a library sporting timber-panelled walls. Beyond a nostalgic old varnish we found brambles drizzled with tea tree and lemon oils. A tickle of spice greeted us on the reduced palate, like a strawberry chilli jam, before becoming savoury, as peppercorn sauce cascaded over buttery mashed potato. The finish was earthy-sweet and dry.